Here we are at the finish line, my friends. Ours has been a strange journey, unusual and quite out of the ordinary: our starting point was the mouth, specifically the tongue, with its taste buds of various shapes and positions covering its surface. This was a physical, tangible, and material element, related to the practical and concrete execution of essential vital functions.
From there, the adventure continued along unexpected paths and slowly gained breath, enriching itself with broader dimensions and connotations, involving at times the intellect and even the human soul. The sites of emotional processing came into play—complex mechanisms that activate memories and associations of ideas, opening free windows onto everything we have known, loved, and studied over the course of an entire existence.
All of this occurred with our favorite glass of wine as the undisputed protagonist, always at the center of the stage. From the pure perceptions of sweet, salty, acidic, and bitter during the tasting, we found ourselves developing increasingly conscious sensations: reassuring fullness, a vibrant and curious vital spark, jarring dissonance that calls everything into question, and melancholic restlessness. We reached the point of elaborating deep and complete thoughts and inner movements, capable of connecting with involvement and emotion to various moments of our past experiences.
From there, the adventure continued along unexpected paths and slowly gained breath, enriching itself with broader dimensions and connotations, involving at times the intellect and even the human soul. The sites of emotional processing came into play—complex mechanisms that activate memories and associations of ideas, opening free windows onto everything we have known, loved, and studied over the course of an entire existence.
All of this occurred with our favorite glass of wine as the undisputed protagonist, always at the center of the stage. From the pure perceptions of sweet, salty, acidic, and bitter during the tasting, we found ourselves developing increasingly conscious sensations: reassuring fullness, a vibrant and curious vital spark, jarring dissonance that calls everything into question, and melancholic restlessness. We reached the point of elaborating deep and complete thoughts and inner movements, capable of connecting with involvement and emotion to various moments of our past experiences.
The Fifth Element
The attentive reader will have realized, however, that one piece is still missing to complete the complex design we have built: the fifth fundamental element of taste, known as Umami. Its description concludes the cycle, and this is no coincidence: it is indeed the note that "closes the circle," creating connections between the previous "brushstrokes," providing perspective to the rest, and bringing everything into balance.
The perception of umami occurs right at the center of the tongue. The molecules primarily responsible for it are the amino acid known as glutamic acid and its salts, the glutamates.
The perception of umami occurs right at the center of the tongue. The molecules primarily responsible for it are the amino acid known as glutamic acid and its salts, the glutamates.
Umami in Wine
Does wine contain this amino acid? The answer is yes, although to a lesser extent than other foods and beverages we usually associate more readily with the sensation of umami. We find it in the cell juice located in various structures of the berry—in the mesocarp as well as in the skins and seeds. Its presence is also linked to the processes of grape ripening, fermentation, and aging.
For example, the concentration of glutamic acid in wine tends to increase in cases of:
Prolonged contact of the must with the skins (pomace).
Grapes harvested at advanced ripeness.
Long periods of aging in wooden containers.
Conversely, it will be lower in circumstances where one decides to proceed with clarification, filtration, and general stabilization operations. One of the purposes of such practices is precisely to remove the protein component of which glutamic acid is a constituent. This component can be an element of a wine's identity and integrity, forming the underlying texture that binds other elements together. However, it can also negatively affect stability over the long term or under varying environmental storage conditions.
From these considerations, we can easily deduce that red wines—particularly "unfiltered" ones—are often able to express the perception of umami more incisively than white wines. The latter are generally poorer in the compounds that originate it due to the factors described above.
For example, the concentration of glutamic acid in wine tends to increase in cases of:
Prolonged contact of the must with the skins (pomace).
Grapes harvested at advanced ripeness.
Long periods of aging in wooden containers.
Conversely, it will be lower in circumstances where one decides to proceed with clarification, filtration, and general stabilization operations. One of the purposes of such practices is precisely to remove the protein component of which glutamic acid is a constituent. This component can be an element of a wine's identity and integrity, forming the underlying texture that binds other elements together. However, it can also negatively affect stability over the long term or under varying environmental storage conditions.
From these considerations, we can easily deduce that red wines—particularly "unfiltered" ones—are often able to express the perception of umami more incisively than white wines. The latter are generally poorer in the compounds that originate it due to the factors described above.
Defining the Indescribable
But what does "umami" really mean in general terms and specifically regarding our tasting? This perception is perhaps the most difficult to explain, especially concerning wine. I believe it can be described as an imprint of a clearly protein nature that, besides providing flavor in the direction of greater fullness and roundness, acts by binding all other perceptions together like a special kind of glue. It gives them meaning, coordination, and depth, while simultaneously avoiding—with admirable discretion—any dulling or overbearing effects.
I think of:
Soy sauce enveloping nigiri, enhancing the freshness and saltiness of raw fish, blending perfectly with the starchy delicacy of the rice.
The powerful and energetic sensations derived from slow and prolonged concentration processes, such as the intensity of a good meat broth or the delight of a sumptuous aged cheese.
The passage of time: the long immersion that allows seaweed to retain the very essence of the Ocean.
The hours of cooking for a braised meat, which turns a good cut of beef into a triumph of sensory notes in perfect balance.
The continuous sun exposure that makes the juice of a beefsteak tomato so full and expressive in our gardens.
Umami is the gift of connecting the dots, harmonizing different temporal planes, and finding the right dimension for everything.
I think of:
Soy sauce enveloping nigiri, enhancing the freshness and saltiness of raw fish, blending perfectly with the starchy delicacy of the rice.
The powerful and energetic sensations derived from slow and prolonged concentration processes, such as the intensity of a good meat broth or the delight of a sumptuous aged cheese.
The passage of time: the long immersion that allows seaweed to retain the very essence of the Ocean.
The hours of cooking for a braised meat, which turns a good cut of beef into a triumph of sensory notes in perfect balance.
The continuous sun exposure that makes the juice of a beefsteak tomato so full and expressive in our gardens.
Umami is the gift of connecting the dots, harmonizing different temporal planes, and finding the right dimension for everything.
The Colors and Forms of Harmony
It encompasses all colors that avoid explicitly drawing attention but instead capture and nourish deeply—colors that envelop and welcome:
The antique gold of furnishings in ancestral noble houses.
The endless blue of the clearest and deepest sky.
The dark green of the dense network of a high-mountain coniferous forest, a harbinger of discoveries and secrets.
The intense brown of fertile earth.
The beige of raw canvas that serves as the background and support for an artist's creativity.
The deep brown of grilled meat that, protected by its crunchy surface layer, keeps the powerful flavor of the pulp and its vital juices intact.
The perception of umami in our tasting is like the complex design of an architect, creating a perfect overall picture through the correct placement of individual elements. It is the quiet of a Zen garden, a space of reflective harmony where every element is a symbol. It is the solidity of a Gothic cathedral, its strong walls gathering and coordinating ornaments and decorations to project them upward toward a higher purpose
The antique gold of furnishings in ancestral noble houses.
The endless blue of the clearest and deepest sky.
The dark green of the dense network of a high-mountain coniferous forest, a harbinger of discoveries and secrets.
The intense brown of fertile earth.
The beige of raw canvas that serves as the background and support for an artist's creativity.
The deep brown of grilled meat that, protected by its crunchy surface layer, keeps the powerful flavor of the pulp and its vital juices intact.
The perception of umami in our tasting is like the complex design of an architect, creating a perfect overall picture through the correct placement of individual elements. It is the quiet of a Zen garden, a space of reflective harmony where every element is a symbol. It is the solidity of a Gothic cathedral, its strong walls gathering and coordinating ornaments and decorations to project them upward toward a higher purpose
Literary and Musical Echoes
In me, umami recalls the long family sagas narrated in memorable novels:
"One Hundred Years of Solitude" by Gabriel García Márquez or "War and Peace" by Leo Tolstoy. In these, the plot follows a firm yet imperceptible thread through years and generations, interweaving with historical events and the eternity of human passions.
The perfection of "The Master and Margarita," in its singular and difficult balance between different narrative planes.
The delicacy with which Murakami balances dreams and reality, linking the concrete details of daily life to the dimensions of fantasy and imagination.
It is found in all literature and artistic expression that flows with fluidity and stays in the memory due to a exquisite harmony between grace and depth. We find it in:
The dense and harmonious texture of Beethoven's string quartets.
The softness of Bill Evans' piano.
Mark Knopfler's guitar, flowing like a river.
The structural perfection of Bach.
The magic of Ella Fitzgerald's velvety voice—refined elegance and eloquent depth.
"One Hundred Years of Solitude" by Gabriel García Márquez or "War and Peace" by Leo Tolstoy. In these, the plot follows a firm yet imperceptible thread through years and generations, interweaving with historical events and the eternity of human passions.
The perfection of "The Master and Margarita," in its singular and difficult balance between different narrative planes.
The delicacy with which Murakami balances dreams and reality, linking the concrete details of daily life to the dimensions of fantasy and imagination.
It is found in all literature and artistic expression that flows with fluidity and stays in the memory due to a exquisite harmony between grace and depth. We find it in:
The dense and harmonious texture of Beethoven's string quartets.
The softness of Bill Evans' piano.
Mark Knopfler's guitar, flowing like a river.
The structural perfection of Bach.
The magic of Ella Fitzgerald's velvety voice—refined elegance and eloquent depth.
Conclusion
Umami pushes us toward an important reflection: our lives need vibration, originality, and peaks of energy. However, the true value—the one that is never forgotten—resides in the ability to gather the most vivid notes of who we are and what we experience. As time passes, we must coordinate these notes, placing them in a mutual relationship that gives each a higher and deeper meaning to find the perfect balance.
The same applies to wine. The tasting—thanks to the starting grapes, the soil, the climate, and how we interpret these elements in enological practice—speaks to us through a composition of different impulses. Our task is to encourage the expression of each impulse to create something capable of speaking to the heart of the taster. We must do this without ever forgetting the overall balance, the elegance, the "velvet," or the "silk" that forms the background texture, ensuring that a good wine can become an authentic masterpiece.
The same applies to wine. The tasting—thanks to the starting grapes, the soil, the climate, and how we interpret these elements in enological practice—speaks to us through a composition of different impulses. Our task is to encourage the expression of each impulse to create something capable of speaking to the heart of the taster. We must do this without ever forgetting the overall balance, the elegance, the "velvet," or the "silk" that forms the background texture, ensuring that a good wine can become an authentic masterpiece.
Roberto Cipresso
Winemaker and Author. Expert in terroir
