Forget chemistry and sugar for a moment.
For me, sweetness is the shape of a circle, the absence of edges. It's the first flavor we encounter upon coming into the world, the indelible memory of a mother's embrace that tells us we're safe. It's a feeling of fullness, of warmth, a curved and continuous line that knows no conflict.
If dessert is "trusting abandon," it sometimes risks becoming an "enemy" of the terroir, masking the subtlest nuances with its opulence. Think of Pantelleria: Passito is trapped sun, it is harmony, but it must never become a mask that hides the dramatic beauty of the wind and the toil of that extreme land.
Roberto Cipresso
Winemaker & Author. Expert in terroir viticulture